Reupholstering Jeep Cherokee XJ Sun Visors

My wife and I bought a 1995 Jeep Cherokee XJ mostly for camping and road trips.  It was only $3,100 and is an automatic so she can drive it (for some reason, she doesn’t want to learn to drive a manual?!).  Cosmetically, it’s in pretty good shape except the inside looks really worn.  The headliner is sagging and the visors were all torn up.  I went ahead and replaced the headliner and decided to repair the visors too.

Gross and ripped old sun visor



OutJeeping’s How To Wrap Custom Sunvisor

BleepinJeep’s How-To Custom Sun Visor



New cloth.  I used headliner material with a foam backing from Joann Fabrics.  You can use whatever you want but something thicker like felt will probably hold up better than normal cloth.

DAP Weldwood Contact Cement.  You can also use spray adhesive, but I’ve found that this stuff holds much better longterm.

Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.


Removal and Disassembly:

Use a Phillip’s head screwdriver and remove the first screw

Move the visor down and take out the other two screws

Use a flathead screwdriver and pry apart the two halves at the seam

Pull the pin out on the end. For my 1995 XJ, I had to do this before pulling the two halves completely apart.  It looks like some years you can leave this in place

Continue prying around

Once open, carefully remove the hardware

Make a note of where the metal tab goes into the plastic for reassembly

It should now open up completely and you can start pulling the headliner material off



The ends of the visor have a live hinge that flexes so it fits against the roof in the up position.  On the driver’s side mine had snapped and was only held together by the headliner material.  The fix I used seems to hold pretty well but if you are using spray contact adhesive, it may not hold as well over the longterm.

Since the ears on the end had snapped their live hinges, I used two strips of the new headliner material and contact cement to reattach them

I applied a thin coat on all the surfaces, let it dry for about ten minutes, lined it up and pressed them together.  This stuff smells so use it outside.  Your brain will thank you!

After, the outside looks pretty normal

With both sides done from inside

With both sides done from outside


New Material and Install

To cut out the new material, I laid the old on top and traced it out with a sharpie

Then I cut it out with some sharp scissors

And lined it up.  Notice that all the tabs have their own cutout on the pattern

I used the same contact cement around the perimeter and on the edges of the new material. You only need a very light coat since the clamshell has small plastic spikes to hold the material in place once you close it

After it has set for a few minutes, line up the hardware

And snap it back into its groove

This should be what it looks like when finished and you can snap the two halves back together working your way around the edges

Next you can slide the pin back in

And screw the visor back in!

The only downside is that I can’t put my warning stickers back on. Sure hope I remember how to buckle up!

Posted in Uncategorized

Adding Filament Runout Detection to an Anycubic Kossel with Marlin 1.1.8 and BIQU 3D Filament Detection Module

I have several Anycubic Kossel 3D Printers that work great for the price ($180-320 depending on the model).  One issue I’ve run into is when a reel of filament gets low, I can’t reliably print with it for fear of running out mid-print and wasting the plastic.  With some changes to the Marlin firmware (version 1.1.8 as of this writing) and adding a sensor for less than $5, I was able to fix this!  The inspiration came from a Thingiverse model by Nenex that mounts this cheap sensor to the 2020 extrusions that make up most of the Anycubic Kossel’s body.

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Posted in Random Technology

Fixing a Cheap 3d Printer Power Supply with a Blown NTC Thermister

My older style Anycubic Kossel Pulley didn’t come with a heated bed or a power supply large enough to run it.  Although the newer Kossels Anycubic is making (as of early 2018) come with both, I had to purchase these separately and piece it together.  I spent all of $20 on eBay for the 360W supply and it worked great, until two months later when I smelled some smoke and the printer shut off mid-print.  Opening up the case, I found a NTC 5D-15 thermistor that was ashy and split in two.  This is how I fixed it.


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Posted in Random Technology

HAProxy in pfSense as a Reverse Proxy

I run a virtualized Nextcloud server on my home server and it has its own domain that is forwarded to my home IP.  While playing with Nextcloud, I ran across OnlyOffice and setup another virtual server running the OnlyOffice Document Server.  The problem that I ran into is that pfSense redirected incoming traffic to my home IP only to the Nextcloud server and I didn’t have a method for forwarding traffic to the OnlyOffice server on its own subdomain.  Basically I wanted: -> Nextcloud -> OnlyOffice

haproxy_pfsense (1).png

Since I’m not really an expert on this, I didn’t know that a reverse proxy is what I needed to make this happen.  After digging a little I found that pfSense has HAProxy and that can take the incoming traffic to the home IP and analyze if it was intended for or and forward it to the correct server on my network.

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Posted in pfSense

AC-225 Welder Amperage Control with SCRs

In an attempt to make my AC-225 decent at TIG welding, I added an amperage control circuit.  This allows me to plug in my homemade foot pedal and fine tune the arc as I’m welding.  Like most of my AC-225 modifications, most of the credit goes to Gregory Hildstrom for all the work he put into making this circuit and the other modifications he wrote about.  The other person who deserves much credit is Mike W who posted the original diagram.

AC-225 now with foot control!

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Posted in Welding

Quick and Easy DIY AR-15 Upper Receiver Vise Block

I needed to install an AR-15 barrel on a new upper and didn’t want to pay $25 for a vise block.  Instead I used some scrap 2x4s and a few screws to make my own.

In the vise and ready to go

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Posted in Shooting

Replacing 1st Generation Trooper Front Wheel Bearings and Grease Seals

Now to be honest, I don’t think I needed to replace my wheel bearings.  They could probably have just been cleaned and regreased, but the cost was around $70 for both front bearings and the grease seals, and since I was already doing a brake job and replacing the auto locking hubs, it wasn’t much more work.  Also, my Trooper is from 1991 and I think the bearings were never repacked since the factory.  The service manual says they need it every 30,000 miles, and I was about 180,000 miles overdue!

It’s always important to be comfortable when working on your car!

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Posted in Isuzu

Swapping 1st Generation Isuzu Trooper Auto Locking Hubs for WARN Manual Hubs

I upgraded to manual locking hubs after wanting to do it for several years.  Now, “upgrading” to something that makes you get out of your car to use 4 wheel drive seems a little crazy to most people, but I see it as an upgrade since they are considered stronger than the stock automatic hubs and there is no question if they fully engaged or if something is wrong.  Listening for the “click” and not being sure you heard it is a little unnerving.  Also, I am only engaging 4-high and 4-low when I am going somewhere off road, so getting out and turning the hubs isn’t that big of a deal.

Stock photo of the new hubs

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Posted in Isuzu